Sunday, February 21, 2010

The Southampton Neighborhood

Southampton is a south St. Louis neighborhood located north of Eichelberger Street, south of Chippewa Street, west of Kingshighway Boulevard and east of Hampton Avenue:
Southampton had a 3% gain in population from 1990 - 2000!  Way to go Southampton or SoHa (as the locals have tagged their neighborhood)!  Of the 7,793 residents counted, 92% were white, 3% black, 2% Hispanic/Latino, 1% Asian. 

3,675 housing units existed, a whopping 95% of which were occupied, split nicely 66% owned/34% rented.

2010 Census data showed a slight decrease in population from 7,793 to 6,904.  The constituency is growing more diverse with 86% white, 8% black, 3.5% Hispanic/Latino and 1.2% Asian.

A little background on SoHa from their website:
The first homes in the Southampton Neighborhood were built around 1905. The brick "arts and crafts" homes were constructed primarily in the 1930's. Original residents say this type of home took about one year to build. Much of the original tract of land part of the Decker Farm, was developed by the Merchantile Trust Company.
Mr Sihrett, supervised the building of the Subdivision and named it "Southampton" after a town in his native England. Many other streets in Southampton are also named after towns in England: Nottingham, Hampton, Devonshire, Lansdowne, Murdoch, Sutherland, Brannon and Macklind.

Early Southampton residents carried water to their homes from a spring at Nottingham and Kingshighway until a water main was contructed.

This area was one of several chosen as a possible site for the 1904 World's Fair It was determined to be almost impossible to run adequate transportation facilities to the Southampton area, and Forest Park ended up as the chosen location.
Here's the history on some of the street names in SoHa:
Bancroft:  Named for historian George Bancroft.

Brannon:  Named for landowners Thomas and Louisa Brannon.

Delor Street:  Named after the founder of Carondelet, Clement Delor.

Eichelberger Street:  Named in honor of Doctor George F. Eichelberger, a member of Carondelet’s first City Council, Eichelberger Street originally was named Clark Street for Lewis & Clark Expedition explorer William Clark.

Itaska:  Named after Lake Itasca in Minnesota.

Kingshighway:  Named for the second oldest railroad in Missouri which ran from St. Louis to New Madrid.

Murdoch Ave.:  Named after John Murdock, a farmer.

Neosho: Named after the Neosho River in Kansas; An Osage Indian word for clear spring.
Sulphur Street: Once had a sulphur spring on it near the intersection of Sulphur and Manchester Road.
Walsh Street: Named for John B. Walsh, the first mayor of Carondolet.

Wherry Ave.:  Formerly a creek which was paved over; named after Mackey Wherry, a surveyor and engineer.

Winona:  Named for the daughter of Carl Wimar, the artist who painted the dome in the Old Courthouse.
I guess the fact that Wherry used to be a creek explains the strange angle at which the road diagonally criss-crosses the otherwise perfect recti-linear grid.  By the way, you have to respect this street grid...it's not closed off!  No dead end streets or Schoemehl pots blocking traffic!

There are many quality, convenient services within SoHa.  You have the fully occupied Hampton Village shopping mall at the busy corner of Hampton and Chippewa which includes a quality Schnucks, JC Penney's, shoe store, woman's clothing stores, gym, doctor/dentists offices, chain restaurants, chain barber, and Johnnie Brocks.
 There are several other services and restaurants on the perimeter of the neighborhood along Hampton, Chippewa and Kingshighway including chain pizza, several banks, florist, auto mechanics, a ravioli outlet, a Mexican restaurant, etc.  Here are some sights along Kingshighway, Chippewa and Hampton, including my favorites the Kuna Building, The Record Exchange (former Buder Library) built in 1961 and the Hampshire Building:
 
 
I like that little barber shop tucked between the larger building along Kingshighway and the start of the residential properties.
 
 
^This former auto parts store will be the new home to a Remax office.  The former photography business moved out of the handsome building direct south of it.
 The Record Exchange:
 
 
Not only is the outer perimeter of Southampton bustling with activity, there is also a lot of intra-neighborhood business that is very walkable and quite frankly have made SoHa a truly desirable place for a wider group of people.  There is a lot of foot traffic in this neighborhood and the businesses along Macklind Avenue have helped increase the activity and foot traffic within the neighborhood.  The Macklind Business District has a website explaining all the businesses.  There are several bars, a coffee shop, several mechanics, sausage shop, running store, eco-store, dentists, CPA offices, etc.  Here are some shots of Macklind:
There are more attractive buildings awaiting tenants and activity on the Macklind strip:
The Buder Elementary School on Lansdowne:
 
^This is a shot of the Patricia Beckwith outdoor classroom.  Kudos to Buder and SLPS for utilizing the school grounds for an extension of the curriculum.  

There is a new playground built on this property that is popular with the neighborhood kids.  Southampton doesn't really have a park within it's boundaries, so this playground fills a nice gap for the residents.

There are a several churches in the neighborhood:
 My favorite being Hope Lutheran:
But that's just the businesses, churches, schools and retail, the true story on Southampton is it's tidy, modestly scaled homes.  It's hard to profile neighborhoods like this in that the streets are lined with home after home after home that are well cared for and similar in style.  There are very few boarded up homes in this established south side neighborhood.  I only found one apartment complex on Lawn that was vacant:
 There are also very few empty lots/fallow ground.  I didn't find one, with the exception of the fallow lot on Murdoch that was a perfectly good, rehab ready home next to Eddie's Donuts.  In fact, it's hard to find a front yard or alley that's not tidy and clean.  34% of the property is rental and it is all clean as a whistle as well, with the exception of some multi-families along Chippewa.

So here are the homes that make up the majority of Southampton's area.  The 1930's were good to this part of the city, there are art deco touches sprinkled amongst the gingerbread houses, Dutch colonials, arts and crafts bungalows and multi-families.  And the people that live here today are good stewards of the fine homes and buildings.  Congrats to Southampton for keeping one of the most tidy neighborhoods in the city.  It takes a lot of time, care and money to maintain these old homes, and Southampton residents are clearly doing their part to keep this a beautiful place for the next generation.

The closer you get to Hampton there are some vinyl sided frame homes:

Now for my ridiculous sign sighting of the day.  For this one, I conjured up a back story:

Herman was spying down from his second story perch above the alley.  Here came those rotten little bastards again, probably with balls in tow.  Can't they have fun somewhere else?  Where are their parents?  First with the tennis balls against the wall, then came soccer balls, then yes the dreaded and most destructive of all balls:  the baseball.  It was getting worse of late, the ball play was becoming more varied and active and at times out of control...frankly, it was just too much.  He'd put up with these little rapscallions for too long.  Then the final straw.  It was a cold winter morning when he pulled back the kitchen drape only to see them coming his way down the alley in numbers not previously seen....is that, are those, do they have hockey sticks?  Aw, hell no...not on Herman's watch.  He set down the coffee mug and knew what he had to do.  He grabbed his robe and shuffled down the stairs to the work bench in the corner of the basement where the sign was made and duly posted once and for all:
These signs crack me up.

Anyhow, Southampton is a cozy little neighborhood with some real retail, business and entertainment momentum building within it's borders.

If you're interested in reading more, there was a nice piece on SoHa in St. Louis Magazine written by resident Julie Dill in April, 2007.

6 comments:

Adam said...

hi, mark. just discovered these neighborhood threads via a link on skyscraperpage. they're freaking awesome! thanks for doing this!

adam

Mark Groth said...

^you bet Adam, it's really a lot of fun. The best part is visiting the places that most St. Louisans don't. Talking to the people in the neighborhoods is really fun too. I've done 18 so far, so only 61 more to go!

Lindsay said...

Yes, thank you! I just discovered your blog as well, I don't really even remember how......
But anyway, my family and I currently live in west county, Ballwin to be exact, and we are about to uproot the fam and head to the city. West county makes me want to gag and I can't wait to move out of here. Southampton is one of the areas I have been house hunting in and your blog has pretty much reinforced what I have discovered. I look forward to reading your other posts!

Mark Groth said...

^Lindsay, I hope you choose St.Louis. If you are looking for a good Realtor, check out Circa...good people.

http://www.circastl.com/

Leo said...

I love this blog!! thank you for this. I live in st louis hills & grew up in southhampton area for 22 years. I love hearing the history. I never knew that wherry street was a creek that they paved over.

Dan Rudolph said...

Great blog with tons of info. I have a question for you about the maria and sons building on the corner of Chippewa and Hereford. On the Hereford side, above the second floor windows is a emblem or something like that. It has the Fleur-de-lis and also a swastika on it. I found this very interesting at first. After a little research I found out the building was built in the 1920's and swastikas where somewhat common in the US.

The latest google maps,street view update has a pretty good view of it. Do you know anything about this?