Tuesday, May 31, 2011

The Tower Grove South Neighborhood

Tower Grove South (TGS) is a south St. Louis neighborhood located south of Arsenal Street, north of Chippewa Street, east of Kingshighway Boulevard and west of Grand Boulevard:
I think this may be one of the top 3 most populated neighborhoods of St. Louis at 14,749 people counted in 2000 which was still a loss of 2% from 1990s count.  It's got a nice mix of people ranging from 55% white, 31% black, 8% Asian and 4% Hispanic/Latino, easily one of the most racially diverse neighborhoods in the entire city.  There were 7,308 housing units, 86% occupied.  The split being 48%/52% owner/renter occupied.  What a nice blend of all things, people, price ranges and owner/renter.

TGS is a major urban success story of the last 15 years.  It's got the makings of the perfect St. Louis neighborhood:  a stunning park within walking distance, 2 major commercial districts, fabulous architecture and a strong neighborhood association.  The bad news is, it experienced a 10% loss of residents from 2000-2010, even our nicest neighborhoods continue to post losses as TGS is down to 13,333 people.  Anyhow, this is still a highly desirable neighborhood and I'd put it up there as a clear top 10 for St. Louis places to live, work and play.

The housing within the neighborhood is quite diverse, but typical St. Louis through and through.  This is a rather large neighborhood in area and there are several distinct sections.  There are industrial areas, on the western edge as the stretch of Kingshighway in TGS is largely national chains including the only Pet Smart and Home Depot in St. Louis and many automotive operations including the curious pink building with all the classic American and European sports and luxury cars
Then there is Tower Grove Heights which includes the largest single family homes and recent 2 family rehabs to single family properties just south of Arsenal to Utah and east of Gustine to Grand.  This part of TGS even has it's own neighborhood association and branding.
There are some more modest homes south of Utah to Gravois.  The stretch of Gravois and homes right around it and south to Chippewa are pretty rough, with a lot of unkempt properties and idiotic behavior.  The north side of TGS is certainly different than the south side.  Take a drive through this part of the neighborhood and you'll know exactly what I mean.
This part of the neighborhood also has an unsightly suburban shopping center anchored by a Shop-N-Save.  Aside from the ugly site, this are some pretty handy businesses that help serve the area within this shopping center.
But enough of that, the rest of TGS is worth celebrating.

There are some cool sights and great watering holes on the Gravois, Chippewa and Kingshighway perimeters.
Two of my favorite TGS buildings are the former South Side National Bank tower at Grand/Gravois and the Carpenter Branch of the St. Louis Public Library:
Lest we not forget that the South Side National Bank building, built in 1928, and one of the city's best examples of art deco architecture nearly went the way of the wrecking ball for a.....take a guess.....ding ding ding....Walgreens.  This ridiculous and short sighted idea to raze this classic for a crappy suburban-box Walgreens was nixed largely in part to a grass roots effort by urbanists, architectural lovers and preservation groups.  For a respectable tribute to this building, check out Built St. Louis.

Tower Grove South is certainly an exciting and active place buzzing with activity.  Let's start with South Grand.  These days the area has been successfully branded and has survived and grown for enough years that it is a destination spot for people all over the region. 

The west side of Grand is in TGS, the east side in, you guessed it:  Tower Grove East.  You can't go wrong with a stroll through Tower Grove Park and end up at Mokabe's for an excellent cup of coffee or Tower Grove Creamery for a Missouri-made scoop.  Or, gelato, sushi, pizza, tattoos, used books, tapas, Thai, Chinese, hookahs, Vietnamese, Afghan, Lebanese/Arabic, good ole American comfort food, you can't miss here!  All of these places are in old store fronts and create quite the urban vista:
There is a tremendous variety of offerings on South Grand and most restaurants in the area offer outdoor dining as well, adding to the street level activity.
Grand Boulevard itself is undergoing another renaissance of sorts with their new Great Streets Initiative.  The traffic lanes were reduced and the sidewalks are being widened.  This is a FANTASTIC thing for the pedestrian experience.  A free parking lot is under construction behind the Commerce Bank in Tower Grove East to accommodate the growing number of regional visitors. 
New street trees, curve bump outs, etc are planned from Arsenal south to Utah.  If you ask me, they should have gone all the way down Grand to Meremec, or at least Chippewa.  But I'll take baby steps over the status quo.  Here are some drawings of the plans:



The work on the east side of Grand is nearing completion, and the western side is undergoing major construction:
One of the best TGS news items of the last 10 years is the rise of ANOTHER commercial and entertainment corridor on Morgan Ford from Arsenal to Fyler.  This area is called many things:  MoFo, Skinny Town or simply Morgan Ford.  Several great places have sprung up and created a nice cohesive, walkable area that attracts all kinds of people.  Soccer fan?  Check out Amsterdam Tavern
Typical friendly South City bar?  Check out Tower Pub
For some of the coolest mid-century mod stuff in town, check out Things from the Attic
 Tin Can, 3 Monkeys, Local Harvest Grocery and Cafe, Grove Furnishings, Plaza pizza, pastries and donuts and Stella Blues are also good calls for fun along this evolving strip. 
Public sculpture installations along the strip add to the vibrant feel of this street.  This one sits in front of a coin op car wash:
For more examples of the street art, check out this site.

And, AND, there is also intraneighborhood business and entertainment that is of equal value to the main commercial corridors.  Hartford Coffee, Oak Hill True Value Hardware at 4100 Connecticut, Black Thorn pub at 3735 Wyoming, Gustine Market, A Walk in the Park Pet Grooming/Boarding, etc.
A couple other TGS businesses are worth mentioning including Carl's Service which is home to one of the tidiest, old-school automotive repair shops in the city:
Then there's the tremendous G&W Sausage on Parker just east of Kingshighway.  G&W has some of the tastiest Bavarian selections in town, and when waiting in line to place your order at the meat counter, you will be offered a cold Busch beer or if you're with the special lady, she may be offered a dixie cup of blueberry schnapps.  There is nothing better than heading for the mountains while perusing choice selections of German classics!  In a town that owes so much to it's German heritage, you just don't hear German being spoken...chances are good that you'll hear it here. 
The fun just never ends.  TGS is one of the most walkable, vibrant places in town.  So why not live here, right?  Well you've got plenty of options.  From the swanky homes on Utah:
To the perfect examples of American Foursquare homes made popular in the 1895-1930 time period to the renovated 2 families, now large single family homes:
The homes on Arsenal face the park and are no less stunning:
To the more modest and affordable homes south of Utah and west of Gustine:
Check out this garage:
There are also so handsomely renovated multi-unit properties both old and new:
Tower Grove South is a complete neighborhood and has come so far in the 15 years I've lived here, it's a model for all up and coming neighborhoods in St. Louis.

11 comments:

Adam said...

yay! LOVE the TGS! great coverage, mark!

Mira Cope said...

Great article on my neighborhood -- Thanks!

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Bob D. said...

Don't give up hope on the population yet. I know a lot of the properties here in TGS are conversions from muti family to single family. For instance, my house was formerly a 2 family flat and now is just... me - but it went from a somewhat run down cheapy apartment to a rehabbed place that probably generates much more tax revenue (sadly at my expense).

Mark Groth said...

^Bob D., this is what I suspect hurt many of the south city neighborhoods in the last census. On one hand, it's "right-sizing" the city for modern living...

mochick said...

My sister lives a few buildings west of Mokabee's, and I love visiting her neighborhood! 3634 Arsenal is my favorite house on the street! I'm seriously considering moving to TGS after my youngest graduates high school.

Lauralew said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Mark Groth said...

^Hi Lauralew. St. Louis is a drastically different place than it was in the 80s. TGS has improved so much, it's a top 5 choice for neighborhoods in STL if you ask me. It is a huge neighborhood. The southern edge is drastically different than the north. The closer you are to Tower Grove Park, Grand and MorganFord, the better. The edge along Gravois is pretty dirty and has a lot of knuckleheads out and about. Tower Grove Heights is a showplace. Any big city I've been to has it's nice streets and it's not so nice streets. TGS is one of the more complete neighborhoods. Hope you end up here...

rosemary said...

I too am fearful to go to tower grove area, used to live there from 1973-1996.

Was robbed 3 times, (twice in the last yr that I lived there).

Heather said...

^Rosemary, my husband & I moved to Tower Grove Heights in June 2010 from Michigan. We are both musicians and professors at one of the local universities and thirty-somethings. We LOVE our neighborhood and are trying to find a home to rehab/buy here (we currently rent). We have dogs that I walk daily all over the place, including through the Park, and I often run there alone, without feeling like my safety is at risk (only in daylight, of course). I feel very safe, the neighbors have been welcoming from the start, and all of the business owners are just as friendly and gracious. The neighbor kids call me Miss Heather (which pleases my southern-born heart!). We don't have children yet, but I would be thrilled and proud to raise a family in this true city neighborhood! I bet if you come back and visit you will be pleasantly surprised!

Anonymous said...

So glad to see my old neighborhood making a come back! My family owned a home in the 3900 block of Potomac from 1959 til the mid-70's. My girlfriend down the street & I used to walk to the Carpenter Branch to get books when we were kids & did you know that large commercial section between Gustine & Spring south of Potomac used to be the Good Shepherd Home with a concrete wall around it. I'm sure it was a wonderful piece of architecture but they tore it down to build a Venture Shopping center (don't know what's there now). I recently attended the funeral of a beloved former teacher at St. John's Lutheran on Morganford & was pleasantly surprised to see all the new businesses that have since emerged on Morganford & I too had a friend who lived on Connecticut that was robbed in the 90's. I do hope this part of town makes a come back & who knows - I just may move back there again someday!