Some personal memories of my earliest days of St. Louis discovery and experience.
Residency Requirements and Preference for Citizen Hiring - A Change Of Mind
I'm writing this blog to share some thoughts on the future of hiring civil servants and searching for candidates to fill important city offices and positions.
This issue became top of mind when a recent ballot initiative in April, 2017 came up called Proposition C; it's goal was to provide hiring preference for citizens of St. Louis for public jobs.
The topic sprang up again just this week when our new Mayor took office. On her first day she accepted the retirement/resignation of the acting Chief of Police, Sam Dotson.
That is a big, important position to fill.
A New Mayor For St. Louis!
While I'll hold who I voted for in the primary and general elections close to my chest, I will say that I'm really happy to have Lyda Krewson as our next Mayor.
The first woman Mayor of St. Louis! That's history right there!
Whew, it's time for some fresh faces, no?
Now, I realize a Mayor doesn't really do a whole lot in St. Louis' weak-mayoral system, the Aldermen/women have that larger responsibility; heck sometimes I feel like the Comptroller and the director of the STL Development Corporation play more of a crucial role in our immediate future.
That said, I am really happy to see what she can do, and a Mayor really does set the tone for a city government and is the face to the region and beyond.
The Sunshine Makers, LSD and a St. Louis Connection
Netflix recently made "The Sunshine Makers" available for streaming.
This 2015 documentary chronicles the life and times of two men, Nicholas Sand and Tim Scully, who together set in motion the psychedelic revolution of the late 1960's. Both men were idealists who thought that if everyone would just drop a little acid, the world would be a better place. People would be kinder to each other and the planet, have a larger awareness outside of one's own selfish desires, etc, etc.
Scully was a sharp scientist who knew the formula to make lysergic acid diethylamide (LSD) and had a method to produce and tablet it for distribution. Sand was driven by idealism and spiritualism and bent on bringing the psychedelic experience to the masses. The two became underground chemists who made the drug and did indeed change the world...for a little while anyway. They made massive amounts of LSD and got it in the hands of an entire generation, globally.
Follow Up Post RE: The Evening Whirl
So I recently stumbled across a St. Louis original, the Evening Whirl. The story is all right here.
Happenstance and the Whirl made it's way into my afternoon today when I picked up two Sprites and a bag of Skittles (don't judge me) and asked the gas station attendant for the Whirl.
I wanted to read another issue to follow up with a little extra observation to make sure I fairly wrote up a summary of my firsthand experience reading the publication. Multiple replications make for good science and sound statistics (and better blogs).
She pointed me to a stack of the Whirls, rang up the bill and gave me a weird look. "It's three sixes (666)", she said.
Sure enough my bill was $6.66.
We both kind of chuckled, and I said something like "yeah, three of a kind is good but not with sixes."
She kinda shook off that awkward rebuttal and said, "no you asked for the Whirl, then you got 666."
Read: a) not good luck for you or b) "don't let me see you in the Whirl."
Historic Codes, an Empty Lot and a Proposed Mosque In McKinley Heights
I attended the Fox Park neighborhood association meeting this past January and was pleased to find an agenda jam packed with topics and speakers. It was exciting to just sit back and listen to all that is going on in my neck of the woods. There were politicians running for offices, not-for-profits speaking to new and exciting projects, and volunteers working their tails off to make Fox Park a nice place to live.
One of the guest speakers at the meeting was Rocco Danna, the McKinley Heights Neighborhood Association Chair of Development. McKinley Heights is the neighborhood directly to the east of Fox Park. The neighborhoods are very similar, especially in that they are both historic districts. We both have the same challenges and assets. We are good neighbors.
Danna came bearing good news...at first, followed by a plea for help in honoring the historic codes of the neighborhood.
The Evening Whirl - My Path To Discovery
Seems with many things, I'm late to the party. And just discovering the nearly 80 year old African American owned and operated Evening Whirl is the latest example.
Here's how I stumbled upon this local newspaper.
My drive time to and from work has recently been filled with podcasts to pass the time and keep the brain stimulated.
Charless Village Update - McKinley Heights Neighborhood
Some Quick Thoughts On An MLS Stadium
Today the local newspaper reported that: "A circuit court judge has paved the way for St. Louis to vote on funding a soccer stadium, bolstering hopes of attracting a Major League Soccer franchise to the city."
Well, I guess the electorate of STL is all of a sudden respected. If you recall, we were decidedly not thought to be worthy of voting on the Rams stadium debacle (check the record on the aldermen who voted for that mess...and who are running for office).
Now remember, if you live a couple feet west of Skinker Boulevard, a few feet south of the River Des Peres, a few feet west of Cement land or a few feet east of the halfway point on the Stan Span, you don't matter in this conversation.
3801 Hampton Avenue - In Danger of Suburbanization
Man, I recently got a slap in the face when I went to get some Christmas shopping done at a place I have a long history with: FYE at 3801 Hampton Avenue just north of Chippewa in the Lindenwood Park Neighborhood.
As I was entering, there was a posting on the front door urging people who don't want a fast food joint to buy out this store, demo the building and put up a typical suburban drive thru to contact the city leaders and FYE's corporate HQ:
Cole Chemical Building - 3721 Laclede Avenue in the Midtown Neighborhood
The following is an example of how a building can pique one's curiosity and desire to learn about your surroundings and place in history. Conservation and preservation of places and buildings is such a valuable asset toward historical understanding and providing context within a city.
I was having lunch across the street from a building that caught my eye. There was a blue placard affixed to the building with a cool font that said "Cole's"; I had to cross the street to get some photos and take a closer look.
Happy New Year And Thanks For Reading
I just wanted to check in and give thanks to folks who've followed this blog or who've stumbled upon it over the years. I have been at this website for over eight years and I had a blog called South St. Louis City Talk before that, so I've held this as a hobby for almost 25% of my life.
I never expected anyone to read this, but once I figured out that people do, I had to change my writing style to be responsible and not just shooting my mouth off like I can do in person with friends/acquaintances.
One Hundred Kingshighway - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Last but certainly not least on my list of twenty favorites from 2016, the skyscraper proposal at One Hundred Kingshighway Boulevard between West Pine and Lindell in the Central West End Neighborhood.
This one was announced in December, so I had already assembled my list of top twenty projects when this one came in. That list had to change when I saw this rendering for a 36-story residential tower on a current surface parking lot, overlooking the jewel of the Midwest-Forest Park I was blown away.
The City Foundry - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Continuing with my top twenty development announcements or under-construction projects of 2016, the City Foundry makes the list.
This ~$340M proposal is billed as a public market that will bring office, retail, creative space and a food hall to a 17 acre former industrial site, the Federal-Mogul foundry. From the City Foundry's promotional video: "we are a new center for food, fashion, creativity and innovative thinkers".
Former Praxair Site in Lafayette Square - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Continuing with my top twenty announced or under-construction projects from 2016, we move to Lafayette Square with a development announcement for the former Praxair site along Chouteau Avenue.
I'm amazed at how long this property has sat vacant in such a desirable neighborhood (2005).
We've seen plans floated before
as far back as 2007. But, maybe the economy is back on its feet and the time is right to make the development work.
I'm confident the people in Lafayette Square will demand quality and will be very involved in the process. They have worked so hard in this neighborhood, and I expect that will continue here.
So what are we talking?
NextSTL reported in November that a developer has plans for 64 townhomes
:
Now Pulte Homes has a plan to build 64 townhomes on the Praxair site bounded by Chouteau, Missouri Avenue, MacKay Place and a separate parcel fronting Hickory Street to the south. The developer is planning to meet next week with neighborhood residents living adjacent to the site. A larger Lafayette Square community meeting is planned to follow before the end of the year. No images or site plans have been made available.
Pulte Homes? Not a name I've heard before,
they've never done a project in St. Louis, but they've done many in the suburbs
. And it shows, but this site is unique. I don't think the suburban stuff will work here and I don't think the neighbors will let it. Pulte have done some decent work in other parts of the country including the following:
Pulte project in Alexandria, Virginia
Pulte project in Washington State
This is a dead stretch of Chouteau that needs some love. The south side of the property abuts the fully intact part of the neighborhood and the northern edge has much room for improvement. People have been living around this vacant site for over ten years and they (and people who live near here) are ready for positive change.
This will be a fun one to watch in 2017.
Better Family Life 100 Home Renovation Project - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Continuing with my twenty 'Best of 2016' development announcements and under-construction projects, we have an exciting project in North City.
Better Family Life would like to renovate 100 homes around Page Boulevard, the project has a potential to reach $20M in investment in some areas that haven't seen much investment recently.
I have to apologize for not having more information, I've reached out to Better Family Life via email, but have not made the time to reach out with calls or schedule a visit to get the full story. I hope to follow up on this development in 2017 and report back here.
The local media discussed the work they are doing in several venues.
Per the St. Louis Post-Dispatch in a November, 2016 article
:
“This is a new beginning for Better Family Life because this project will be a major redevelopment of Page Boulevard, which could spark a renaissance in North St. Louis and eliminate the Delmar Divide by helping the existing community and attracting new residents,” Malik Ahmed, Better Family Life's chief executive, said in a statement.
He said he envisions the project will attract millennials and others who want affordable housing in the Page Boulevard area.
Renovation costs for each house will total $200,000, Better Family Life said. Each house will sell for about $130,000, providing owners $60,000 to $70,000 in equity when they move in, the organization said.
Work has begun on three homes. Two of the rehabs are funded by the St. Louis Community Development Agency with gap financing by Midwest Bank, Better Family Life said.
KMOV Channel 4 did an interview with Mr. Ahmed who spoke about the project
.
Do yourself a favor and listen to the following
KPLR Channel 11 story with Better Family Life and a representative from the city
. If that doesn't get you excited, than what will?
Better Family Life has been active in the 26th Ward of St. Louis and they've been buying properties along Belt, Maple, Vernon, etc in several neighborhoods since the 1990's.
They are gaining momentum and one of their goals is to get African Americans who left the city for the county to move back...especially young people who will be civically involved. They call this stretch of Page "The Vibe" because this part of town feels right and is on the verge of gaining fresh blood and investment.
I can't wait to learn more from this group. I will definitely make the time to interview them if they'll have me.
My humble opinion is that if we are going to subsidize growth, this area/project is ripe for it. We need more people rooting down who want to live here. We can subsidize things that benefit visitors and tourists next.
This would be a huge deal for North City! Congrats Better Family Life, keep up the good work. Hope to talk in 2017.
Brew City - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Continuing on with my favorite 2016 developments in St. Louis, the local beer scene in the city just seems to get bigger and better.
2016 was no exception with the addition of one more brewery and announcements for a couple others in the city.
may be familiar to some, they have been making beer for some time in New Haven, MO about an hour drive from St. Louis.
They set up shop in the Hill Neighborhood at 1601 Sublette Avenue just south of Manchester. I haven't visited yet, or tried their beer, but I can't wait.
Another brewery,
, will set up shop in the Forest Park Southeast Neighborhood at 1320 South Vandeventer Avenue and they hope to be open in Spring, 2017.
Another brewery,
will be a hockey-themed brewery.
The tasting room will be constructed from the Old Arena/Checkerdome
! they will be in the beautiful Dinks Parish Laundry Building just west of Pappy's and Southern on Olive in
. Perfect place for all those
to converge for a Blues game. On my visit, work was underway on the facade of the building:
Then, work continued on
's renovation of the Cherokee Brewery, complete with caves on Cherokee Street. Read all about it
.
Good news abounds.
I recently attended a brewery tour at Schlafly Tap Room and I gained an appreciation for their vitally important role in changing the laws around brewing in Missouri and St. Louis. Without them fighting the legal fights to open up brewing to smaller breweries, we would still be in ABI land alone. They really played such an important role to open things up here.
Oh, and scenes from Escape From New York were filmed in the building that is now the Taproom on Locust. There is an homage to Snake Plissken on their mural:
So with the addition of 2nd Shift and Rockwell, we will have the following breweries right here in St. Louis:
2nd Shift
4 Hands
Anheuser-Busch InBev
Alpha Brewery
Center Ice
Civil Life
Earthbound
Heavy Riff
Morgan Street
Perennial
Rockwell
Schlafly
Square One
Urban Chestnut
Pappos is brewing their beer for their operations at the Midtown restaurant location as well.
Heck, I'm probably missing a few.
This is something we should really talk up.
. I can wait to see this movie:
There is no shortage of good beer and guzzling beer in St. Louis. 2016 was a good year and 2017 should be even better.
Ballpark Village Phase 2 - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Okay, I'm getting into the sports related posts from 2016. How can you not be optimistic with what Cordish and the Cardinals have proposed for Ballpark Village's 2nd phase.
And then you have the Major League Soccer expansion potential...I'll get to that next.
First some opinions on Ballpark Village (BPV).
Let me get it out of the way and say I, just like nearly everybody in this region, love the St. Louis Cardinals. Baseball is in my blood from the earliest days I can remember. The 1982 and 2011 World Series Championships and the 2006 NLCS were unforgettable moments. Willie McGee, Tom Herr and Yadier Molina are my favorite players. Man, if the Cardinals or Blues ever left the city limits of St. Louis, I'd be crushed. When the Rams left, frankly I was relieved.
I'm a Cards fan, okay. Who isn't? But like Kroenke and Demoff, the Cards/Cordish have tested my loyalty.
Now, I have come to really appreciate Busch Stadium-III...I might even love it. Part of me wished St. Louis would have been the last American city to hold on to it's round, multi-purpose stadium from the 1960's. It was not to be and Busch Stadium-II only lasted a mere 40 years. It didn't save downtown either.
That said, I am not a fan of BPV Phase 1. To each his own, but that whole thing is a massive disappointment to the City of St. Louis and the people who live here. I've tried to walk in there on two separate occasions. I made it for about 10 steps each time. The ridiculous music and the volume at which it was being played gave me immediate social anxiety and I knew I had to get outta there.
Suburban malls and chains don't work very well in St. Louis. This Dave and Busters/carnival/bull-riding stuff is great in Maryland Heights and around casinos, but here it just doesn't work...by itself.
There are too many great, affordable and interesting/unique places to drink and eat in St. Louis and BPV ain't one of em. This is a suburbanite's dream, an entertainment compound surrounded by a fence. It was built for game day visitors and tourists. The fans got what they wanted, but not the city or the people who root down in the city.
I'm not so naive to think that the largest city in the region can't be many things to many people, and I'm glad if BPV rocks your world. But to date it isn't enough to get me excited.
And then there is the MASSIVE surface parking lot that is a scourge on downtown. I started to get cranky with ownership of my favorite sports team. I started to shake my head.
Further, I can't believe the city leaders, Cordish and the Cards bungled the Centene HQ as it went to the inner ring suburb of Clayton, MO (pop. ~16K). St. Louis lost out on its greatest opportunity for new jobs in my lifetime and I mourned that loss.
They blew it. The city blew it. Clayton is nailing it. We lost, they won. I am resentful of that and I shake my head every time I think about the lost potential.
One could argue that what downtown St. Louis needs more than anything is professional, career jobs. That was the chance.
Ugh, have I ruffled your feathers enough? Sorry, but I've got to let the frustration show every now and again.
But, I'm still hopeful and here is why. The Phase 2 site plans are stunning. Modern, beautiful, mixed-use buildings and towers.
A residential tower would cement the stadium into it's current location. You can't sell these amazing living spaces with views of the stadium and then propose demo of Busch 3 in 40 years and move it somewhere else like Busch 2. The Phase 2 commitment would be just that. Commitment to the site and budding history of this great ballpark.
I want to forgive the Cardinals and Cordish for the parking lot, the contemporary country music at volume 11, the mall food and the Centene disaster.
And this would $220M investment would help
:
Go Cards. Do the city right this time.
Pelican Building in Compton Heights - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Continuing on with my top twenty development proposals and under-construction projects from 2016, I'm moving to the Compton Heights Neighborhood to discuss another proposal for the Pelican Building and the shuttered YMCA building on the adjacent property.
Something has to be done with this property. It is in one of the most stable neighborhoods in the city, yet it has sat vacant for as long as I can remember.
The various property owners throughout the years have done nothing to preserve the buildings while they lie in wait for a plan. A hole formed in the roof of the YMCA; zero efforts were made to mitigate water damage and you knew it was a just a matter of time. The owner did not fix it or block access to the interior, just let it sit and rot so it'd get "eyesore status" and easier to tear down. The Pelican too. The owner doesn't even call or take responsibility to remove the 4th grade level "art" that trespassers have done to this building. Again, all part of the process of getting what you want (tax breaks or demo permits). Brick is falling all over from both buildings.
I was really worried that the elements and firebugs would take the Pelican out once and for all.
Sometimes it is hard not to be pessimistic with the system here when some property owners are allowed to run amuck while others are held to the codes and standards. This happens all over the city, north to south.
Doing a little research, none of the plans I came across included the YMCA in future plans, so it's days are numbered. As a pragmatic compromiser, I can live with the demo of the YMCA if the Pelican is carefully restored and an urban building replaces the current views of the surface parking lot along Grand and Shenandoah.
For interior photos of the YMCA from 2014, check here for a piece on NextSTL.
Slacker owners aside, I was happy to once again read that something just might happen with this property in 2017. The most recent proposal includes rehab of the Pelican and demo of the YMCA with apartments and commercial/retail.
The Pelican Building is really something special. You might not think that if you are just seeing it for the first time in its current state. Many probably remember the grand metal and neon sign that once graced the building. It was removed and is in storage in the Lemp Brewery.
One of the best write-ups I've seen on this restaurant is at Lost Tables:
The core of the building was constructed sometime prior to 1875, enlarged in 1878 and completely overhauled in 1895 when the Griesedieck family of brewers purchased it for a restaurant and bar, managed by Carl Anschuetz as Anschuetz’s Restaurant.
In 1938, James Pelican bought the restaurant and gave it his name. Pelican converted the establishment into a highly popular family restaurant, where the menu offered fish and a wide variety of American cuisine.
The sign above the Michelob sign is the one I remember. I don't recall the long horizontal metal and neon and the Bud sign. The Falstaff sign that preceded the Bud sign can be seen in the photo with the streetcar.
The Pelican Building is a historic reminder of our brewing history; it can and should be saved.
Secondly, the potential for new construction could bring a building that hugs the street along Grand and Shenandoah to relieve Tower Grove East neighbor's views of the surface parking lot.
So let's take a look at the various site plans proposed by the owners/developers over the years and see what could be in store in 2017.
Back in 2009, the St. Louis Post-Dispatch reported on a proposal that would have brought a Snap Fitness and 37,000 total sq ft of space to the YMCA site, which was slated for demo, and a steak restaurant to the Pelican. This plan never materialized.
Later, another proposal called Pelican Court surfaced from First & Main Properties that would have brought >18K square feet of office space and >16K square feet of retail/restaurant space.
view facing South Grand
The site plan looked nice along Grand, but it did not address the lack of a street wall along Shenandoah. This was a missed opportunity to improve the site.
No improvement along Shenandoah Avenue
This one never materialized either, which brings us to the 2016 proposal.
In 2016 the St. Louis Business Journal reported a new plan being floated:
MBR Management and Altus Properties plan to demolish the old South City YMCA and replace it with an $18.6 million apartment project.
About 110 apartments would go up at the old YMCA site. Retail space and apartments would go into the Pelican Building, and the projects would share a parking lot.
The rudimentary site plan had the same lost opportunity to improve the Shenandoah street view.
The neighbors across the street would be stuck with the view of the parking lot. It seems easy to remove the curb cut, add part of the new construction on Shenandoah and Grand, with access to ample parking from Vandenbergh Avenue (and on-street Shenandoah parking).
If I were living here, I'd rather overlook other similarly-scaled buildings and the street front vs. somebody's backyard on Longfellow Boulevard.
In November, NexSTL reported that the likely tenant of the Pelican would be Domino's Pizza:
MBR Management Corporation is the owner of 72 Dominos Pizza franchises in the Missouri area. It’s long been rumored at the the South Grand Dominoes would relocated to this development, though that has not been confirmed. Josh Udelhofen, previously of Koman Group and now with Altus Properties, is listed as co-developer on LCRA documents.
So while the site plan is less than perfect, hopefully the neighbors and leaders in the area can demand a better layout and demand the best construction materials in trade for the tax breaks they will certainly seek. And before you get on your national chain high horse, I would bet a Domino's Pizza would be used by more people in TGE and the rest of the delivery radius than a higher-priced local option. This neighborhood deserves something nice and we don't want to miss this opportunity to improve the city.
I'm once again hopeful for this site and the Pelican Building. This will be a fun one to watch in 2017.
Curvy Building on Tower Grove (Woodward Lofts) - 2016 St. Louis City Talk Favorite
Forest Park Southeast development announcements were copious in 2016. The good news just kept on coming throughout the year. There was ~$80M worth of new construction developments along Manchester Avenue filling in vacant lots and surface parking lots.
Equally exciting were the preservation announcements for some of our most beautiful historic buildings.
So when I read of the ~$35M plans to convert the Woodward & Tiernan Printing Co. building at 1519 Tower Grove Avenue (at Vandeventer Avenue) to 160 apartments, I was stoked.
This is one of my favorite buildings in the FPSE neighborhood because of its curvy edge that follows the railroad tracks.
Most everyone knows this building from sitting at the light at Tower Grove and Vandeventer. It is such an important connection from FPSE to Shaw and Botanical Heights. It is exciting when my friends who don't pay as much attention to this stuff as I, mention a project they are excited about. That happened on three separate occasions, so I know this building is important to a lot of people.
Both the St. Louis Post-Dispatch and NextSTL reported on this development proposal in November, 2016. Per the PD report:
Conversion as housing is planned for the Woodward & Tiernan Printing Co. building at 1519 Tower Grove Avenue. Pier Property Group, a new St. Louis real estate company, hopes to complete its purchase of the 250,000-square-foot building in March and begin its renovation as 160 loft-style apartments. The first units could be ready for residents in late spring 2018.
Michael Hamburg, PPG’s founder, said the $30 million to $35 million project, to be called Woodward Lofts, will help connect the rapidly growing Grove neighborhood to the north and areas to the south, which include Botanical Heights and the Shaw neighborhood.
“The thought is to be an infill anchor between all those areas,” he said.
Trivers Associates, a St. Louis architectural firm, bows deeply to the building’s early 20th-century “daylight” factory layout in designing Woodward Lofts’ modern apartments.
The “daylight” design figures heavily in the old factory’s rehab. Reinforced concrete floors and columns permit use of huge windows and clerestories that admit daylight deep into the building’s interior. Ford’s gigantic Model T factory that opened in 1910 in Highland Park, Mich., epitomized the design, which quickly spread to other industries nationwide.
A cornerstone marks the architect's pride in the building:
You can really get an appreciation for the amount of light that would flow into this building if the window were opened on the north side:
Hamburg said the “daylight” factory design will provide every apartment “oversized window bays,” including some with window sections 20 feet high and 20 feet wide. Lofts beneath the building’s five rooftop clerestories are designed with two-story floor plans and 20-foot ceilings. Plans call for removal of roof sections between the clerestories to create narrow indoor courtyards. Garage parking for 175 vehicles also is part of the project.
Check out the amazing rendering that brings some interest to the north side with varied colors and new windows. This could be an amazing space.
I cannot wait to see this one progress in 2017.